The all star team behind Alchemy Consulting (Toby Maloney, Jason Scott, Troy Sidle and Joaquin Simo), have quietly opened their first New York City project together, up a non-descript door (sound familiar?) in Alphabet City. In what was once White Noise, a punk rock venue with stripper poles (where and why have they disappeared?), this neighborhood saloon meets neo speakeasy takes its rather cryptic moniker from the long stream of liquid or ‘ribbon’ that is strained from a cocktail shaker. I venture in on my own, ushered in by a doorman who speaks into his lapel to the host upstairs like we’re on a covert mission: “one for the bar”. There’s nothing covert about my presence here, but I am certainly on a mission. I have procured intelligence that Joaquin is manning the bar tonight and it’s fair to say that I’d drink his cocktails out of an old shoe if he strained them right in there. It’s a spacious, open plan space (designed by Warren Red), seating up to 85, which means that almost everyone in here could grab a chair – should they want one – even at capacity. A long bar curves around the right hand nook of the room, where glistening new shakers and strainers crown the bar top and all the ryes, amaros, monk-made liqueurs, smoky Scotches, house tinctures and bitters that any hardened bar fly and blogger could possibly want also take centre stage. The place has all the bells and whistles of a great craft cocktail bar that one would expect in this age of antique drinking, yet it retains all the charms and comfort of your local pub (without the draught beer. Sigh). I suspect the locals will get very comfortable here regardless. Needless to say with this roll call of talent that the drinks are of course bang on. While getting a perfectly made cocktail was never an issue, perhaps most impressive is the thoughtful attention to detail on the menu itself. Under each drink (broken between 15 originals and 15 classics) are two scales: refreshing to spirituous and comforting to adventurous (see main photo), with a small dot placed along each one. Very cool, gentlemen. The Lust for Life cocktail was a doozy, the Del Maguey mezcal providing a smoky base, fresh pineapple adding texture, orgeat bringing a nutty sweetness, cocoa contributing depth and aroma, while Joaquin’s continued love of sherry rounded it all out with the addition of a palo cortado. All served on a chunk of ice, it was one of the best drinks I’ve had in a while. Not far behind was the Tahona Smash, made with the greatest reposado ever made (IMHO): Siete Leguas, along with lemon, caramelized pear puree, Angostura and Holy Fucking Solera Batman, is that more sherry? Yes it is young Robin (a dry amontillado this time, for the record). Interestingly, Chartreuse – the wonder that it is – gets its own entire page (15 in total), each one a rare vintage sold by the half ounce. Very geeky but again, nicely played gentlemen. Like many bars in this city, there is an overt tendency to mix a plethora of heavy, dark base spirits together, with results that can be either profound and serendipitous or wildly unnecessary. That said, anyone can rest assured that there will most certainly be a libation for any palate, occasion or demographic here. This might be a tough location (we’ll see) but the fact that more and more quality cocktail bars are now based nearby (Summit, The Wayland, The Beagle, PDT, Death & Co, Louis 649, Evelyn Drinkery) certainly won’t hurt. With such a fine pedigree at the helm, definitely a bar to keep your eye on. You’re welcome.
225 Avenue B (@ 14th St). Second Floor. Ph: 917 656 6788. (www.pouringribbons.com).
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